Welcome to The Cherry On Top.
I'm diving deep on things to see and do when traveling to the Mosel River in Germany. Now that we've lived on the Mosel for nearly a decade, I feel I've an arsenal of information to share and apparently, it is greatly needed.
I come across a lot of people that travel there and they have no clue what to do. I've filled many a napkin, gsm (cell phone), ticket stub with popular sites, restaurants and more. The last time I did this, they asked if I'd write something up and get it out there so others have a reference. You know me, always happy to oblige.
My apologies for the format of this particular blog. I'm not a great photographer and I don't have or couldn't find all of my pictures for all of the places I'm mentioning, but I'll link you up where possible. Typically, I scrapbook my photos I blog about, but thought the focus for this blog specifically, wouldn't benefit with the scrapbooking for all of the images.
So, if you do follow my blog regularly, this one is going to be different. I'll add a nice little surprise at the end and perhaps by the time I finish this entry, I may indeed, add a few scrap-a-licious touches.
Let's dive right in and learn about traveling along the Mosel River in Germany.
A pretty view from half way up the Calmont. Go up to the church (in Bremm) then take the rocky path up to the flags. Have a seat on the bench and enjoy.
One of the many things Bremm is known for is this stunning view. Though, there is an even better one from the top of the mountain. The Calmont is known as the steepest vineyard mountain in Europe. You can get cheaper and more expensive wines in Bremm. Including organic wine. Keep scrolling for more information and a unique situation in regards to growing wine in the mountains.
I've zoomed in to Google maps and produced this image for ya. This way you get an idea of where everything is that I'll be addressing. At the top of the map you'll note Koblenz and at the bottom, Trier. Trier is very close to the border of Luxembourg and Koblenz is the city where the Rhein meets the Mosel. I'll write a bit more about that, too.
Bremm is not named on this darn map. If you view the map, you'll see Ediger-Eller (which is actually two, small villages) and south west of there is Bullay. Bremm is in between these two villages.
This is the view from my balcony. If you're driving down the Moselstrasse, stop and sit on that bench for the best street view.
Head up the Calmont on one of the many trails. Stop every now and then and take a good look around. You can take the super steep route up the mountain, by the church or take one of many trails that aren't quite as challenging.
There I am attempting to hike part of the Klettersteig Trail. It is not a trail for the faint hearted. I will never do it, again. Hehehe... It is very dangerous and many people and pets get injured on this trail. The paths are extremely steep and there are no safety measures taken anywhere on this path. So you go at your own risk. I advise not doing the hike if it is wet or has rained a lot and if you go when it's balls hot, take water with you because a big portion of the trail is in full sun and it get really hot. My children did the entire path at ages 5 and 6. I would not recommend it for young children or the aged, but I'm a kind of worry wart.
Here's a view from along the Klettersteig. The view above has Bremm pictured and this view, Ediger-Eller.
If you look at both pictures, in the bend is another small mountain. That's the Frauenberg. It too is really fun to hike. At the base you'll see the ruins of an old convent. Personally, I find it not at all worth any extra effort, but if you're visiting the beach below the convent or hiking in the nearby area, you can go check it out. If climbing is a problem for you, take a bike along the lovely paths for walking and biking. It's very flat along the river. So, ya don't even need an electric bike and you can ride for hours and hours.
Pictured above is my youngest taken at the top of the Frauenberg. If I'm not mistaken there is also a church and graveyard up there with plenty of shaded spaces and benches at the top. Below are my boys cooling off in the river. There are several places where you can go for a dip. The east side of the river boasts full, all day sun. So, if it is too hot, take a swim from the west side or the side where Bremm is located.
Beware the swans! They do not like when you get too close. After weeks of swimming in the river, the swans finally got used to us.
Consider this a warning! In the summer months, this helicopter sprays the grapes all around Bremm and the surrounding area. He starts at 5:30 a.m. It is extremely loud and he goes for several hours. This makes time outside frightfully uncomfortable and of course, you don't want to be walking or riding where they are spraying. He doesn't fly on any kind of regular basis, but typically it's only one time a week and for a few hours.
Perhaps visit another village, go shopping in the huge store, Globus on top of the mountain in Zell or even better, visit the Geierlay hanging bridge in Morsdorf. You can do a nice circle when you park in the large public parking lot, walk to the bridge in one direction (maybe through the fields) and then through the woods on the way back. It's really stunning on the bridge with the huge ravine underfoot. I don't dare, BTW. (I can't find the darn pics.)
It is most impressive watching this pilot maneuver the mountains.
There are dozens if not more, BnB's or Ferienwohnung in Bremm. Our favorite place to stay is pictured below. You get a lovely outside space, wonderful views and a mega awesome house to stay in. It's in the quiet, new part of Bremm. We all really loved staying here. Even in the winter. Gunther keeps it super clean and nice and warm.
Another place you can stay and or eat in Bremm is the Weinhaus Berg. They've got a lovely patio and a newly renovated indoor area. It's right on the main road. It's just fine for kids. There are four restaurants in Bremm. Three are on the first, main road of the village and the other is on Auf Calais. They offer pizza which is kind of fun and it's ideal for kids. Accommodation is also available. The quality is very inconsistent and no dogs are aloud inside, but they stay open all year and offer indoor and outdoor eating space. All of the other restaurants allow dogs. Watch out for closing dates!!!
All restaurants have at least one closing day and they are all different. Holidays, lunch closings and weekly closing days for stores can ruin a trip. Do your research!
Here I am enjoying a drink and more at our favorite place in Bremm. It isn't as chic as the Berg or as nice as Anke's yard, but it offers THE BEST views of the mountains as far as restaurants go and you'll save a small fortune here, too. Lehnen's got ice cream, desserts, flammekeuche (pizza-sh) and a typical, full German menu. It's great if you've got kids or if you're feeling a little grimy from hiking or cycling. Make sure ya get a spot on the balcony for that view! Don't expect anything fancy. Our boys love the schnitzel burger.
Would you call this fast food? Not me! Pia whips up a mean salad, too.
If you're looking into some retail therapy, you could travel up to Whittlich and visit Bungert. OMG! It is the nicest department I've ever been in. They've got great brands and a wonderfully helpful staff. Below Bungert is an Edeka that offers fresh fish, a fresh butcher, a lot of organic products, delicious cheeses and our favorite, a wine bar with tappas. Do the wine bar first, then do your shopping. If ya dig stogies, it's totally the place to be.
Head over to Whittlich and visit the town center if the helicopter is flying around. It's a larger town. I'm not a huge fan of it. They have plenty of chain stores and restaurants. There is a fantastic yarn shop with the sweetest personnel. Check out the Woll-Laden, here.
If you want to do a city trip, you can train it to Koblenz. I'm not big on city trips, but Koblenz was quite ok. There's a sky ride to the citadel and there's all kinds of stuff to do along the river including a park and restaurants. The shopping was ok, but it is mostly chain stores. We paid to park outside of the town and walked in.
Where the Rhein meets the Mosel.
The Rhein isn't far at all from the Mosel. So if you get the itch, take the hour's drive through the mountains and visit some of the villages there. I'll be writing more about the Rhein in another blog. Though I don't know it nearly as well as the Mosel.
This place has the largest selection of coo-coo clocks I've ever seen. Sankt Goar, Germany.
If you are in to camping and or RV'ing, the Mosel is definitely the place for you. Those gosh darn RV's and campers get the best spots along the river!!! We rented an RV and drove over to the Mosel only to find that it was flooded! Can you imagine? Since our plans were foiled, we tucked our tails between our legs and drove up the mountain to Bad Betrich. We could park our RV there, right on the raging rapids and had the town at our disposal. We totally enjoyed it! I think it was 12 Euros a night to park on the lot.
Bad Betrich is a great place to visit for a few hours or more. If the helicopter is spraying in Bremm, head on up to the Bungert or here. From Bremm it's not even a 30 minute drive. There is a fantastic spa in Bad Betrich. You can swim indoor or out. Enjoy many hot tubs, saunas and even get nakey if you're more of a sassy cherry. It is totally separate from the rest of the amenities. I recommend going upstairs to the outdoor cafe where you get this stunning view of the village. They have a nice selection of beer and they are not stingy with the wine either. The prices are pretty darn good, but there are other restaurants in the village with far better quality.
Take a walk along the river, through the park, through the town, grab a bite to eat or relax in the Vulkaneifel Therme. (The water isn't normally this crazy.) There's only a little bit of shopping. The village has so darn much potential. It's a bummer more ins't open and more often. The closing hours for most places are most inconvenient. I do love the pedestrian street, though.
On your way back down the mountain, you can visit Burg Arras in Alf. You can also stay here. I didn't visit this one, but according to the family, I didn't miss much. They also found the staff unpleasant. The pictures they took looked ok. Maybe see for yourself and let me know.
If castles are your thing, You can hike up the mountain and visit the Reichsburg Castle in Cochem. They only let you in a few rooms and it is has all been reconstructed. I think it's ok to walk around the outside and I do like the walk up, but we were all disappointed about paying to get in and only saw a few rooms. There is certainly much better ones to see. I've got more further in this blog.
Find more on Cochem a little further down, too.
Burg Eltz is a stunning castle and totally worth the visit. It's still owned by the same family hundreds of years later. I've never been in such a wonderful castle. It isn't exactly on the Mosel, but head up the mountain around Treis-Karten for about 30 minutes or so and you'll be swept back in time. They've got food and drink there, souvenirs and the surroundings are just magical. It'd be an excellent and memorable afternoon out. They take you through many rooms and have tours in a variety of languages including English. I really wouldn't miss this one. Even kids might enjoy it.
There is so, so much to do along the Mosel! I hope you've got a couple of weeks. Otherwise, you'll have to go through this list and pick and choose. Below, you can see me and my friend on top of the Calmont in Bremm. You can hike all of the way up there or you can drive to the top of the mountain, park the car in one of the two lots and walk the short hike to the cross. It's so easy! Just follow the rocky road and it'll lead ya right to the sweet spot where you too can take gorgeous photos. I promise, it'll take your breath away.
On the weekends, in the summer, there is a hut with drinks and snacks including local wine and fresh baked pretzels. They also often jump from the mountain and do some parasailing. It's pretty fun to watch.
You can visit the Mosel any time of year. In a nutshell, most restaurants and cafes are closed, but there are enough open to keep you fed and if ya can't find something head over to the Edeka in Bullay or the Globus on top of the mountain in Zell. You can buy something fresh and cook or go to the very child friendly restaurant in Globus. All of the regular, chain shops are open and larger towns will have places for you to pop in. The Weinhaus Berg only closes the end of December, January and opens for Carnival. Cochem has a few restaurants that stay open year round, too. If you stay in a BnB or your cozy camper, you can prepare all of your meals and enjoy the nature that abounds.
They are pretty great at cleaning up if it snows. I've lived in the area for just under 10 years and I'm yet to see a lot of snow. It snows very rarely and when it does, it typically isn't much. I've only seen a dusting a few times.
Below, is a whole other ball game. Last year our lovely village (Bremm) started this super, amazing walking tour through the vineyards and orchards to witness the gorgeous peach trees in bloom. I did the tour and it was a blast. There were so many people walking around and taking pictures. Many smiles were shared. Just look how happy my hubs was. Hehehe...Ya have to keep your eyes on the weather because these special mountain peaches don't bloom at exactly the same time. This year was a touch later due to the colder temperatures. Start looking in April. You can always shoot me a mail, too.
The fall might be the best time to go. The temperatures can still be very comfortable and things get a lot more quiet. Most shops and cafes are still open until the first weekend in November and the harvesting of the grapes and wine festivals are in full swing. Whoo hoo! Most villages have a fest. So pick your favorite one and check when their festival is. You don't have to reserve in most cases. Just show up. Enjoy live music, food and of course beer and wine. If you go early enough, they are all fairly child friendly.
Here's an epic pic I got with one of the last big floods. It does flood rather regularly as of late and it can happen fairly fast, but you'll know about a week ahead of time. The villagers claim it usually doesn't happen in summer, but we've witnessed otherwise. If it is flooding when you go, just head up the mountain a bit. There is plenty to do up there as I mentioned above. Most businesses in the villages mentioned are on the front line and will more than likely be closed if it is flooding, but you can often access some of the villages if there is a road to the mountain. Bremm, Cochem and Zell (on the west side of the river) are a few.
Many of the winzers have a program where you can learn about their wine making process, get caught up on history, taste and even sometimes, help harvest their wine. You can taste wine at countless wineries all up and down the Mosel and Rhein. Some of our favorite locals are Manfred Stein & Sohn, Andreas Lehnen and Laurentiushof which is bio. We even like the Zwarte Kat found all over and in the Globus.
Mr. Lehnen clipping his grapes in the most environmentally friendly and quietest manner possible. There is quite a bit of laughter during, though. The result of so much love and care can be tasted in his wine.
The views you can enjoy from the vineyards.
That's my hubs helping pluck the grapes.
Along the Mosel River is this great path for bikes, peeps and pets. It can get pretty darn busy in the summer. As I mentioned earlier, the west side of the river (Bremm side) is a lot busier than the east side (Zell). Also, both sides do not have an unending path. Personally, the west side is a lot smoother and easier. There are bridges where you can cross the river in Bremm/Neff, Alf/Bullay and in Zell. You'll have to drive way up to Cochem and way down to Reil for more bridges. Keep these things in mind if you are biking the river. It can be a bit confusing. I've helped many a biker on their way.
If Bremm seems like your thing, here's a pic of some of the interesting architecture you can find here. Stay in the older part of town for the good stuff. Consider church bells when choosing a place. Many villages across Germany have the tolling of the bells, every hour, half hour and more. Some start as early as 6:00 a.m.! Keep that in mind if you are staying very near a church. You'll find homes hundreds of years old in Bremm and many other villages. The church provides lovely views. You can find a handy shop and baker in the new side on the Calmontstrasse. I would recommend Bremm if you're looking for a quiet vacation. Except that darn helicopter I mentioned. Don't miss the new playground and soccer field with matches! It's on the other side of the newer part.
Uncle Tom's Cabin in Bullay offers delicious wine, food and spectacular views. The "Hutte" is great for kids and big doggos, too. It's surrounded by nature. So you can park at the base of the mountain and hike up and have a scrumptious bite or drive the tiny, dangerous winding road. It's only open in the summer and last I looked, it was for sale. Make sure it is still open if you want to go. You can also lodge here. Take a long walk in the surrounding woods.
The food is pretty good. They boast my favorite wein sulze. It's the best I've eaten in Germany, so far. Link me up if you've had better! (I may not have spelled that correctly. There were many choices.) Tom is devouring a schlemmer toast which is toast, sliced ham and eggs.
Drive over to the Steinkaulenberg Mine and check out the caves, edelsteinen (precious stones) and do some mining. Our kids had a pretty good time there. It is an hour away from the Mosel.
If you're looking for more kid friendly activities, you could do some kayaking or canoeing on the Mosel. Find them in Eller or some other villages. There's a sky ride in Cochem on top of the mountain. Also on top of the mountain is a vacation park. You might be able to use some of their facilities there. I know for sure you can golf and mini golf there. It's a large course with a driving range, too. My kids used to like the public pool in Cochem. It has slides, a wave pool, indoor and outdoor areas and if I'm not mistaken, not only is it open all year, there's a restaurant there, too. Now, that would be a fun day for the little ones.
Some villages have open air public pools like Ellenz-Poltersdorf and Zell.
Enjoy more local products like weinbergpfirsich jam and liquor. I've made the jam myself and it by far, my most favorite jam on the planet. You can get grandma's jam at most wineries.
Cochem has a lot of cafes and restaurants and they are not at all created equally. I used to love going to Cochem, but not so much any more. It gets crazy busy in the summer, on the weekends and the shops are not as numerous as before. I'm afraid to even tell you my favorite restaurant there because it is already a little tricky getting in there. Even in the winter. They are open all year and their closing dates often change. Last time I visited I saw they were closed Wednesday and Thursday, but don't hold me to that. Gaststatte Noss is super cozy and the food is some of the best traditional food in the area. (IMHO) Even the locals go here, but don't tell them I told you! Hehehe...The staff is a bit tepid, but don't let it put you off. It's one of the few places where you can actually get sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. I know, right?! Tom's favorite is the axe, which is a huge pig leg and my favorite is the schlachtplatte with various pork cuts, kraut and mashed taters. The wine is pretty pricey here, but prices have really gone through the roof in this area since 2020. If you haven't been here in a long time, you might die of shock.
Above is not Noss and the food here, at this time, was abominable. Beware of tourist traps in Cochem. They abound!
Jump on a river cruise in Cochem and see the villages peppering the Mosel. They have different durations. Find the right one for you. I've never done one.
Vino Forum in Ernst (right by Cochem) is another really fun place to do some wine tasting. The views are ok, the wine is nice, the snacks are really fun and different and the place is rather chic and modern, which some people really like. We go here all of the time. I love the rose bubbles. I bet you guessed that? You can get small eats, desserts and drinks. It is not ideal for small children and you must walk up a lot of stairs to get there.
Ernst, Germany
Ernst is a quiet, little village, right outside of Cochem. It doesn't have much to do, but the location is quite ok. There's a larger hotel there if that's your kind of ideal vacation. Hotel Pollmanns offers accommodation and food in Ernst. There are few cafes and restaurants and it's geographic location is pretty nice because it's kind of in the middle of it all.
Beilstein
Below, is my favorite village on the Mosel, Beilstein. Though not in the winter. Nothing is open at all. It's such a bummer! You must go to this village. Try your best to stay away on the weekends and watch out for when the cruise ships let off their passengers. The few cafes that are there, fill up fast.
It's so, so super cute and well preserved. Give yourself one hell of workout and take the million stairs to the top and visit the kloster and this restaurant. The wine and beer was beyond fab. We had the tappas and they were kind of meh, but you might love them. If anything they were unique. Enjoy the views! It could be super windy!
Take the short yet steep hike to the ruins that once protected this Medieval village. There really isn't much to see, but the views are super and you can get Paulaner beer from the tap. Talk about a score! There are a lot of places to take a break. My friend and I enjoyed the walk up and took the other path on the way down. You can easily spend a few hours here if you have a meal.
That's me near the top where the restaurant is and that's my sultze. I find the prices here really good. It's ideal for kids and again, it can be windy, but they do offer indoor seating as well.
I've eaten at three place in Beilstein and they were all great. Not fancy, but great. I love saumagen and you can't get it just anywhere, but ya can at Gute Quelle. Also suitable for kids. You can also stay there. I've noticed it is a little pricey to stay in Beilstein. There are some other smaller cafes and a few fancier places I can't afford that look wonderful.
Another must see in Beilstein is the Zehnthauskeller. Click on that link and check out how beyond gorgeous this place is inside and out. We're not aloud to photograph the place, inside. I would definitely recommend the wine tasting arrangements, though pricey. I got the fish and salad and it was so good. This is not an ideal place for kids.
I'm torn to show you how picturesque Beilstein is, but I don't want to spoil it for you. It's beyond dreamy! Even if you do go in winter, you can still walk around and enjoy the quiet and beauty. Bring your camera! I don't want to spoil it for you, but above is one picture of Beilstein and those are the stairs to the convent and restaurant.
Ediger is a tiny village, just one village away from Bremm. The views are fab, it's the sunny side and there are quite a few restaurants and wineries right on the water. My neighbor has a restaurant there Kaffeeklatsch (though on the market) with a great menu and delicious wine. It's our favorite place to get a nice cut of meat and the choices are more unique than other places. Our kids love the burgers and I love the waffle fries. They have an awesome shrimp with salad and the omelette is tasty, too. We highly recommend it and it is kid and doggo friendly.
Go back a few streets and find an Italian restaurant there. It's run by real Italians. The fam loves it though I'm a little underwhelmed. Tom says the pasta is really good, but I'm yet to try it. I do love the wine they serve and it's a nice alternative if you're getting sick of pork and potatoes. It's super cozy inside and they offer outdoor seating, too.
Above, you see Zell. Again, it's pretty dead in the winter, but there are a few restaurants and shops that stay open year around. It's worth the trip, I think, but barely. It's not nearly as fabulous as Beilstein, Cochem or Bern Kastel, but I do love the pedestrian street. It's a larger village full of permanent residents, which is nice. There is an award winning butcher there, too. Fresh butchers are all too few along the Mosel, though locally raised and butchered meat is a plenty and found in most restaurants like the Schinkenkeller in Senheim and Mosella Restuarant in Ernst. I rate the latter very, very low, but rate it high for kids and dogs because it is that ... casual. The Schinkenkeller is pretty darn cool. If you are a big time BBQ or carnivore fan, you'll probably love it. The basement is mega cool to dine in. We've been here several times and find it inconsistent. The service is far from great, but then again, welcome to Europe. I would recommend it for it's coziness, uniqueness, the awesome wine and meat. The first time we went, we truly enjoyed it. It's kid friendly, but a touch claustrophobic in the basement. There is other seating arrangements. Look for the golden pig hanging on the outside. You can pop in a just get some meat from the fresh butcher.
Back to Zell. The last time I dined in Zell I went to Hotel Zum Grunen Kranz and really enjoyed the food and cheap secco. It's a Hotel and Spa. They had a pretty nifty arrangement for guests. Check it out and see if it's for you. I had the trout and it was delicious. We sat by the window where we could see over the river and yet be out of the pouring rain. They offer indoor and outdoor seating. The menu had some typical and not so typical items, which I liked.
The Burgerstube is a classic German restaurant with great prices, awesome for kids and is open year round. Not exactly a classy joint, but we love this old fashioned German vibe, a lot. That might say something about our tastes and budget. Hehehe... I did grow up with German food. So, I'm keen.
Ideally, you could hit up Traben-Trabach's Sunday market on your way to Bern-Kastel which is by far, in my opinion, the nicest village to visit on the Mosel. Traben-Trabach has a huge museum and that's about it. We walked around and were most underwhelmed, but the market is definitely worth a look see.
Bern-Kastel
If you go anywhere on the Mosel, it has to be Bernkastel. Apparently, I already blogged about it. BUAH! It isn't the greatest blog, but I do show off a lot of pictures if you want to see more. It's a larger village. I hear it is awesome at Christmas and I still haven't gone?! It's full, full, full of unique shops, cafes, restaurants, patios and a few stay open year round, but not too much. Again, it is worth just walking around. If you travel across the bridge, take a gander down the first street at the gorgeous mansions. There's also another yarn shop on the other side of the bridge. (I'm not into knitting, but my travel buddy is ecstatic about it.)
Keep heading south to Trier.
Trier is a large town with a whole lot to do. You can easily spend an entire day there. It's the furthest down the river. So it will take you some time to drive there. I love going there with the train. It's only 8 Euros both ways and the station is right outside the town. Perfect!
The shopping is really good and there are more cafes and restaurants than you can shake a stick at. Enjoy the many, lovely squares, fountains, Roman ruins, the Great Black Wall and stunning architecture. I'd say it's a don't miss stop.
Oh! This reminds me! There are like zero toy stores. So don't get the little ones all excited. We couldn't find toy stores anywhere at all along the Mosel. Not counting Cochem (though mega lame) and the Globus. As I'm writing this, my first thought was, "this isn't a great place for kids", but after further thought, the Mosel is truly ideal for anyone at any budget and as of this writing, most places allow pets which is a huge plus.
So? What do you think? Are you ready for a nice long vacation on the Mosel River in Germany? When will you go? Is there something that looks spectacular? I wanted to share my favorites, but thought it really is all very subjective. They say a picture says a 1,000 words. I hope my photos might help motivate you.
If you go anywhere, my top picks are:
1) Bernkastel
2) Beilstein
3) Trier
4) Burg Eltz
5) Cochem
6) Hanging Bridge in Morsdorf
Enjoy your future travels on the Mosel River in Germany.
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You can have it all for free for one month.
Make something lovely and share it in our group.
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Happy travels and happy scrapping!
